Last week I boldly and deftly led from the back a small, but hardy group, of timid (but brave!) adventurous thrill-seeking explorers into the mountains of New Caledonia. Our quest: we searched for the final resting place of a World War 2 United States Airforce Douglas R4D-1 supply plane that crashed in October 1942.
Our adventure was not without peril! Wild nature abounded the savage island. The path proved treacherously steep, and dusty. Onroute to the plane we were advised to undertake a “controlled fall” descent of the mountain, all the while avoiding the ravenous spiders that sought us as a tasty mid-day morsel.
The history of the wreckage
The R4D1 had been on a supply run from New Caledonia to Guadalcanal in the Solomon Islands when on October 9 1942, just after midnight, its take-off was slowed by one of its two engines immediately cutting out.
Laden with fuel, spare parts and ammunition supplies for the underway Guadalcanal Campaign the R4D-1 lacked sufficient power to climb over the oncoming mountain. It clipped a radio tower at the top of facing mountain, shearing off a wing and sealing the fate of its crew.
In hindsight, I bet they wished their cargo was more bales of cotton buds, fire extinguishers, and medical supplies rather than containers of highly flammable fuel…
Steven had been contacted by a US Army historian, Will Armstrong, who told him about the episode and sought his assistance in finding and documenting the wreckage. Steven and Paul Judd spent the next few weeks scouring the mountain with a drone in search of the wreckage.
The area is native Kanak land, owned by a Saint Vincent region Kanak tribe, so before any search was undertaken, tribal permission was obtained. A couple of the Kanaks were avid trampers, and joined the group in their search efforts.
Ultimately, the wreckage was found by “Petit” Dominique Dumortier – a young 9 year-old boy with a Go-Pro strapped to his front capturing his full excitement of being the first to rediscover this plane. The plane had been discoverd by a couple of French kids who posted 2 pictures (Steven later discovered) from a visit in 1999. But this time, the plane’s wreckage was published for the world to see.
My 13 July 2025 Team
Foregoing our usual Sunday morning Mass, it was into the faithful, capable and almost lovingly guiding hands of our humble guide, Doctor Steven Hare, to whom we were to trust the fate of our lives with on this hot 13 July Sunday morning.
Before we set out in search of Adventure, cutting a swathe into the thick jungle under the hot tropical sun, I asked the team to hastily arrange themselves for a pre-departure photographic memento for the Royal Society, whilst Dr Hare quickly readied his tripod:
Joining Dr Hare and myself was Dr Odongo, a Kenyan climate change expert; the Lady’s Hare and Godin; Geoffrey – a half man / half dog minotaur, and Pablo a recent arrival to the islands from the darkest jungles of Patagonia who spoke not a word of English, but smiled a lot and seemed very good with knives.
Cutting a swathe up through the rough
Our path was to be outlined as below. First up was an energetic march up to an old abandoned gypsum mine from the turn of last century. From there, some gentle tourist photography and taking in the cooler temperate airs before progressing upto the rebuilt radio tower for a spot of lunch. On the way would be found the severed wing.
Following a satisfying period of post-mastication digestion and friendly banter, the group was to proceed via “controlled falling” down into the plane wreckage itself. From there, much tourism activities would ensue and collective photographs taken. The men folk would slap each other’s thighs and comment on our superior masculinity.
The group would then continue its “controlled falling” endeavours down the side of the vertical cliff, ultimately making their way back to the vehicles.
And for a spot of added adventure, a visit would be made in the evening to an indigenous house to admire the local culture.
Photos on the way to the gypsum mine
Lots of swathes to cut. There used to be a road up to the mine, but over the last 5 years, it had well and truly grown over. Now, it was only accessible on foot.
Gaelle, sporting her The Pacific Community (SPC) themed sports gear 😉
I wasn’t kidding about the spiders! These beasts had hairy legs and I’m sure I could see eight sets of boney knuckles:
Photos from the gypsum mine
Steven gives Geoff’s lower dogs legs a scratch while the camera snaps another Kodak Moment.
Would you like a side of wings with your order?
The new radio tower
Mr Roarke the Plane! The Plane!
To give you a sense of the hill slope, Geoff is standing vertically up…Realign your head so he’s pointing vertically and you’ve got the angle the hill was on..
Added Bonus: Kanak Tribal Meeting House Visit
Thank you Steven for organising a super fun and education day’s outing 🙂
And thank you Victor, Geoff, Pablo, Gaelle, Ildiko and Carlos for being wonderful tramping campanions 🙂